Japan’s population may be skewing older, leading the global march to demographic gridlock, but Tokyo feels like a city powered by the young. Sophisticated and sprawling, with half a dozen city centers that long ago grew together, it combines the life force of a national capital of everything — politics, finance, culture, style — with a talent for change and renewal that it earned the hard way, bouncing back after repeated flattening by earthquakes, fires and war over its 400 years of existence. The skyscraper race of the ’90s has slowed down, but a new romance with the city’s waterfront is flourishing, spots for sushi and pâté de foie gras are always being added to its 160,000 restaurants, and the teenagers jamming anime-inspired shopping districts update the outlandish costume of the moment every few months.
cortesia NYT5.
"On the Sumida
A latecomer to the notion of a recreational waterfront, Tokyo now looks to the water for more than seafood. From Hinode Pier at the edge of Tokyo Bay, take a cruise into the heart of the city on the Sumida River, passing riverside walkways and feeder canals. Commentary in Japanese and English focuses on the 13 bridges that slip by overhead, but the real point is the unusually open perspective on this congested city. Other cruises cross the bay to Odaiba, an island that has taken off as an entertainment district covered with amusement parks, museums, shopping malls and a spa that draws geothermally heated water from deep under the bay. (Tokyo Cruise; 81-3-0120-977311; suijobus.co.jp; 760 yen.) ."
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