Cuba, Convertible pesos (CUC's), and Ballet

Below is an email from a long term friend with whom we share notes as he is a member of a book club in London

encompassing Latino authors only.  He recently returned from taking his daughter who is part of the Royal London Ballet as per the dialogue below.  

Hi Terry

Below is a slightly amended version of an email sent to a contact who writes guidebooks on Havana & Cuba & who kindly gave me some up-to-date info on the capital prior to our visit. Don't know how much will be of interest but I'm passing it on anyway. The Nat Geo article is to my mind a fair representation of the current situation. Havana is still a thrilling and beautiful city but I was disappointed at the extent that tourism, which is keeping the whole country afloat, has corrupted a large section of the population in a mad rush for CUCs (convertible pesos).

Best wishes

Niall  

"Just back from 17 days in Cuba so thought I'd pass on a few comments.

Spent 4 nights at the Breezes complex in Jibacoa with the aim of snorkelling on the reef that lies about 150 metres off the beach. Unfortunately Sandy was in the process of wreaking havoc in Santiago & Holguin and the wind and rain hit the northern coast as well; red flag flying every day and we were unable to get into the sea. Splendid location however with the hills behind the hotel sweeping down to the coast. We had a lovely room overlooking the manicured tropical garden. Food in these all-inclusive packages was pretty appalling but breakfast was ok. Did a lot of walking along the impressive beach and I imagine water sports, diving etc would be good in non-hurricane months.

We moved to the Sevilla in Havana for the 10 days of the ballet festival. The hotel is in poor repair and we had to change our room as the window wouldn't close, the wash basin didn't drain and the loo failed to flush. We ended up in 615 which turned out to be that occupied by Al Capone. Compares very unfavourably with the Parque Central, where we stayed the last time. Breakfast in the Sevilla was poor and deposits were required before making even local phone calls or signing for any meals. Comments in the visitors' book were hilarious with numerous complaints about the non-functioning airconditioning, the non-existant internet access and constant harrassment from jineteros and hawkers of every type.

The ballet festival was a delight with dancers from Chile, Argentina, Puerto Rico, Mexico, Netherlands, Spain, France, Italy & Norway. The UK was represented by two dancers each from Northern Ballet, Leeds and English National in London, while there were groups from both New York City Ballet & American Ballet Theatre in New York. As usual however the real thrill was to see so much talent from Ballet Nacional de Cuba. Alicia Alonso was lead out onto the stage at many performances to much adulation. At the age of 92+ she still appears to rule the company with a rod of iron and somehow manages to turn out a continuous production line of technically brilliant dancers. Speculation is always rife about defections, which are a fairly regular occurrence on overseas tours. Reasons are both artistic and economic as the choreography available to the company is largely restricted to Alonso's own compositions and of course salaries are a pittance.

As ever we walked quite extensively throughout Vedado, Centro Habana & the Ciudad Vieja. Centro, where we ate a couple of times at Flor de Loto (excellent value with generous portions of lobster at CUC 12), reminded us of recent photos of war-torn Syrian cities. Skeletal crumbling buildings, broken pavements, huge potholes, filthy streets littered with dog turds. Had three good meals at Mamá Inés where Erasmo has a photo on display of himself with Gabo and Fidel dated last year. Apparently he's known Castro for years and was summoned to his residence to cook. The paladar is pleasantly furnished and the walls are lined with plaques and dedications from celebrities such as Antonio Gades and Rafael Alberti, together with many leading Cuban and international names from the artistic world. Other places where we ate well were La Moneda Cubana (expensive, but marvellous view of the harbour entrance from the terrace), El Templete (excellent mixed seafood dish for two CUC 30), Nao located on Obispo No 1 entre San Pedro y Baratillo (recommended by Cuban friend - good camarones enchilados and friendly, attentive service).

Librería Fayad Jamís, Obispo 261 sells books in CUP and I picked up a couple for the princely sum of CUP 40 (US$ 1.60). One is a sort of anthology of the works of Virgilio Piñera, the gay poet/playwright/short story writer who was marginalised by the revolutionary regime but who is now back in fashion. His books are everywhere and a ballet gala at the Gran Teatro was dedicated to him on 4 November with a number of his works translated into dance. One anomaly of the CUP/CUC system was clearly visible when ballet programmes were sold for performances during the festival at CUP 1 to Cubans and CUC 1 to foreigners. Whereas my CUP 1 was refused (as I'm obviously a forastero) my wife's offer of the same amount was accepted as she can pass as a local!!

This month's National Geographic carries an extensive article on Cuba. I think it's a pretty fair reflection of the current status quo. In spite of its numerous problems, Havana remains one of my favourite cities. Sadly Cuba's dependence on tourism is encouraging abuse and on this visit instances of short-changing were common and the need to check restaurant bills was essential."